How to Grow Tomatoes Step by Step (What Actually Works After 15+ Years)
If you’ve ever planted tomatoes and ended up with big, beautiful plants… and almost no tomatoes—welcome to the club.
Tomatoes are one of those crops that seem easy. Everyone grows them. But getting plants that actually produce baskets of tomatoes? That’s where most backyard gardeners get stuck.
I’ve been growing tomatoes on our Kansas homestead for well over a decade—through drought, wind, heat waves, herbicide drift, and more trial-and-error than I’d like to admit.
This guide will walk you through exactly how to grow tomatoes step by step, what actually matters, and what you can safely ignore.
Jump to:
- How to Grow Tomatoes (Quick Summary)
- Step-by-Step: How to Grow Tomatoes Successfully
- Why Your Tomato Plants Aren’t Producing
- Common Tomato Growing Mistakes
- Growing Tomatoes in Raised Beds (What Works for Me)
- Companion Plants for Tomatoes (What Actually Works)
- Growing Tomatoes in Zone 6 (Kansas Reality Check)
- How to Get More Tomatoes Per Plant
- When to Harvest Tomatoes (And Why I Don’t Wait Until They’re Fully Ripe)
- How to Preserve Tomatoes from Your Garden
- What’s Wrong With My Tomato Plant? (Common Diseases + Pest Fixes)
- More gardening posts you'll love
- Comments
How to Grow Tomatoes (Quick Summary)
If you just want the basics, here’s what actually makes the difference:
- Plant tomatoes deep (deeper than you think)
- Give them full sun (6–8+ hours daily)
- Use nutrient-rich, well-draining soil
- Water consistently—not too much, not too little
- Support plants early with cages or trellises
- Fertilize correctly (not just more fertilizer)
- Keep airflow good to prevent disease
👉 Do those things well, and you’ll be ahead of most gardeners.
Step-by-Step: How to Grow Tomatoes Successfully
Choose the Right Tomato Variety
Not all tomatoes grow the same—and this matters more than most people realize.
You’ll typically choose between:
- Determinate (bush) – grow to a set size, produce all at once
- Indeterminate (vining) – keep growing and producing all season
On our homestead, I mostly grow indeterminate varieties because I want a steady harvest—not everything at once.
👉 If you’re short on space or want easy management, determinate can be a great option.
👉 If you want ongoing harvests, go indeterminate.
Start from Seed or Buy Plants
Both work—this is more about your season and lifestyle.
- Seeds: cheaper, more variety, but require planning
- Transplants: easier, faster start
Living in Kansas (Zone 6), I often start seeds indoors so my plants are strong and ready to go once the weather cooperates. My favorite varieties to grow from seed are Gin Fizz, Cherokee Purple, Black Krim, San Marzano, and Brandywine.
👉 But if you’re just getting started, buying healthy plants is perfectly fine!
Plant Tomatoes Deep (This Is a Game-Changer)
This is one of the biggest differences between struggling plants and thriving ones.
Tomatoes can grow roots all along their stem—so when you plant them deep, you’re creating a stronger root system right from the start.
👉 I usually plant mine:
- deeper than the original pot
- sometimes burying ⅔ of the plant
More roots = stronger plants = more tomatoes.
How to Pot Up Tomato Seedlings (Don’t Skip This Step)
If you’re starting tomatoes from seed, one of the best things you can do for stronger plants is to pot them up into a larger container before planting them outside.
This is something I do every year on our homestead—and it makes a noticeable difference in how quickly plants take off once they hit the garden.
Why Potting Up Matters
Tomatoes are one of the few plants that can grow roots along their stems.
So every time you move them into a bigger pot and plant them deeper, you’re:
- building a stronger root system
- creating sturdier plants
- setting yourself up for better production later
👉 More roots = more tomatoes (it really is that simple)
When to Pot Up Tomato Seedlings
I usually pot up when:
- roots start filling the container
- the plant has a few sets of true leaves
- growth starts to slow or look cramped
👉 If your plant looks like it’s outgrowing its space—it probably is.
How to Pot Up Tomatoes Step-by-Step
- Choose a larger container
- Fill with nutrient-rich soil
- Gently remove the seedling
- Plant it deeper than it was before (bury part of the stem)
- Water well and return to light
👉 I like to add a little boost here too (like Epsom salt or nutrients) to help them transition.
🎥 Watch: How I Pot Up My Tomato Seedlings
You can find the self-watering planter I'm using in this video by using my affiliate link here 👉 Shop Planters & Gardening Supplies
Give Them Full Sun (But Here’s the Catch)
You’ve probably heard “full sun”… but here’s what actually matters:
Tomatoes need:
👉 6–8+ hours of direct sunlight
But in hot, dry climates (hello, Kansas summers), too much intense afternoon heat can stress plants and slow production.
What I’ve found works best:
- Full morning sun
- Some relief from the harshest late-afternoon heat (if possible)
Use the Right Soil (Not Just “Good Soil”)
“Good soil” gets thrown around a lot, but here’s what tomatoes actually want:
- Loose, well-draining soil
- Rich in organic matter
- Not compacted
In my raised beds, I focus on:
- compost-rich soil
- adding nutrients before planting
- keeping the soil structure light and workable
👉 Tomatoes are heavy feeders—but dumping fertilizer on poor soil won’t fix the problem.
Water Consistently (This Is Where Most People Mess Up)
Tomatoes hate inconsistency more than almost anything.
- Too much water → weak roots, disease
- Too little → stress, blossom drop, poor fruit
What works best:
👉 Deep watering, less often
👉 Keeping soil evenly moist (not soaked)
On our homestead, I’ve learned that consistency matters way more than the exact amount.
Support Your Plants Early
If you wait until your plant is falling over… you’ve waited too long.
Tomatoes need support early so they can:
- grow upright
- get better airflow
- produce cleaner, healthier fruit
Options:
- cages
- stakes
- trellis systems
👉 I prefer sturdy support from the beginning—especially with indeterminate varieties that just keep growing.
Fertilize the Right Way
More fertilizer does NOT equal more tomatoes. This is one of the biggest reasons people get huge plants and no fruit.
In fact, too much nitrogen will give you:
👉 big leafy plants
👉 very few tomatoes
What you want is balance.
I focus on:
- feeding the soil first
- then supplementing as needed
- avoiding overdoing it early on
👉 I go more in-depth on fertilizing in these posts:
- Are Coffee Grounds Good for Tomato Plants?
- Cheap Ways to Add Nitrogen to the Soil
- Can You Compost Egg Shells for Plants
Why Your Tomato Plants Aren’t Producing
If your plants look healthy but aren’t producing, here are the most common reasons:
- Too much nitrogen (all leaves, no fruit)
- Not enough sunlight
- Inconsistent watering
- Poor pollination
- Heat stress (especially in mid-summer)
I’ve had seasons where everything looked perfect—and still struggled with production. It almost always came down to one of these.
Common Tomato Growing Mistakes
These are the mistakes I see over and over again:
- Planting too shallow
- Watering inconsistently
- Ignoring airflow between plants
- Fertilizing incorrectly
- Planting too early in cold soil
👉 The good news? These are all fixable.
Growing Tomatoes in Raised Beds (What Works for Me)
Raised beds are hands-down my favorite way to grow tomatoes.
Why:
- better soil control
- improved drainage
- easier management
What’s worked best for me:
- spacing plants properly (don’t crowd them)
- using rich, compost-based soil
- adding support at planting time
👉 Raised beds make it easier to control the environment—and tomatoes love consistency.
Companion Plants for Tomatoes (What Actually Works)
Companion planting with tomatoes isn’t just about cramming more plants into a space—it’s about creating a garden that works with you, not against you.
Over the years, I’ve tested different combinations in my raised beds, and a few plants consistently stand out.
What Not to Plant with Tomatoes
Some plants just don’t play well with tomatoes:
- Corn – attracts similar pests
- Potatoes – can spread disease
- Fennel – tends to stunt growth of nearby plants
👉 I’ve learned the hard way that giving tomatoes their space (and the right neighbors) makes a noticeable difference in how they perform.
Best Companion Plants for Tomatoes
- Basil – helps repel pests and is a classic for a reason
- Marigolds – great for deterring nematodes and other garden pests
- Onions & Garlic – help keep unwanted insects away
- Lettuce & Spinach – grow well in the shade of tomato plants
- Carrots – can share space without competing too heavily
👉 I like mixing in herbs and flowers not just for pest control, but because it makes the garden feel full, intentional, and a lot prettier.
How I Use Companion Planting in My Beds
Instead of planting tomatoes in a single row, I like to:
- tuck in basil and marigolds between plants
- use lettuce as a living mulch early in the season
- mix function (pest control) with beauty

Growing Tomatoes in Zone 6 (Kansas Reality Check)
If you’re growing in Zone 6, timing matters.
- Last frost: typically late April to mid-May
- Soil needs to be warm before planting
- Late frosts can still sneak in
And then there’s:
👉 heat
👉 wind
👉 unpredictable weather
What I’ve learned:
- don’t rush planting
- protect young plants
- be ready to adjust as the season shifts
How to Get More Tomatoes Per Plant
If you want higher yields, focus on:
- strong root systems (plant deep)
- proper spacing
- consistent watering
- balanced fertilizing
- pruning when needed
👉 It’s not about doing more—it’s about doing the right things consistently.
When to Harvest Tomatoes (And Why I Don’t Wait Until They’re Fully Ripe)
Knowing when to harvest tomatoes can make a big difference in both flavor and how many you actually get to eat.
Most gardening books will tell you to wait until tomatoes are fully ripe—deep in color, slightly soft, and ready to pick.
And yes… that works.
But here’s what I’ve found after years of growing tomatoes on our homestead:
👉 If I wait until they’re perfect, I’m usually too late.
Because you know what else loves a perfectly ripe tomato?
Raccoons. Rabbits. Hornworms. Ants. Basically everything in the garden.
What I Do Instead
Tomatoes release ethylene gas as soon as they start to ripen—usually when you see that first “blush” of color.
👉 That’s when I pick them.
I harvest my tomatoes when:
- they’ve reached full size
- just start to show color
- are still firm
Then I let them finish ripening indoors, safely away from pests.
How to Tell When Tomatoes Are Ready to Pick
If you’re not sure, here’s what to look for:
- A slight color change (even just a blush)
- Fruit has reached expected size for the variety
- Skin is smooth and slightly glossy
- A faint tomato smell near the stem
👉 They don’t need to be fully red (or yellow, or orange) on the vine to be ready.
Can Tomatoes Ripen Off the Vine?
Yes—and very well.
Even tomatoes picked slightly early will continue to ripen indoors thanks to natural ethylene production.
👉 As long as they’ve reached mature size, they’ll finish ripening just fine.

How to Preserve Tomatoes from Your Garden
If you grow tomatoes successfully… you’re going to have a LOT of them all at once.
Here are a few of the best ways to preserve your harvest:
- Canning – great for sauces, homemade salsa, crushed tomatoes. You can read more about canning tomatoes here → How to Safely Water Bath Can Tomatoes
- Dehydrating – perfect for long-term storage and soups. For more information on dehydrating, read → How to Use a Food Dehydrator
- Freeze drying – longest shelf life option. You can learn more about this method by readying How to Preserve Food for 25+ Years!
- Fermenting – less common, but a great option
Personally, one of my favorite simple methods is dehydrating sliced tomatoes and adding them to soups later—it’s an easy way to bring summer flavor into winter meals.

A Simple Way to Use Fresh Tomatoes (My Favorite)
One of my favorite ways to use fresh tomatoes is about as simple as it gets:
- Slice tomatoes
- Add a few cloves of garlic
- Sprinkle with salt and pepper
- Drizzle with olive oil
- Roast at 400°F for 10–15 minutes
Once they burst and release their juices, serve with sourdough bread or sourdough baguettes! It's so elegant, and so easy! I also highly recommend my Homemade Tomato Soup - it's a favorite!
What’s Wrong With My Tomato Plant? (Common Diseases + Pest Fixes)
If your tomato plants suddenly start looking rough—spots on the leaves, yellowing, holes, or just overall decline—you’re not alone.
Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops… and also one of the most dramatic when something goes wrong.
Common Tomato Diseases
Two of the most common diseases you’ll run into are:
Early Blight
- Dark spots with concentric rings on leaves
- Usually starts on lower leaves and works upward
Late Blight
- Dark, water-soaked spots on leaves and fruit
- Spreads quickly, especially in cool, damp weather
What I Do to Prevent Disease
After dealing with blight more than once, I’ve learned that prevention makes the biggest difference.
Here’s what I focus on:
- Spacing plants properly for airflow
- Avoiding overhead watering
- Removing any infected leaves or debris immediately
- Adding mulch around the base to reduce soil splash

Real-Life Example (Because This Still Happens)
Even doing everything “right”… you can still run into problems.
We had a stretch of cooler temperatures and steady rain this past summer, and sure enough—blight showed up on my tomatoes.
What helped:
- pruning affected leaves quickly
- removing excess foliage
- improving airflow around the plants
Common Tomato Pests
Tomatoes also attract their fair share of pests:
- Hornworms – large green caterpillars that can strip a plant overnight
- Aphids – small insects that cluster on stems and leaves
- Ants – often show up when aphids are present
- Rabbits & raccoons – especially once fruit starts ripening
👉 (Ask me how I know 🙃)
How to Manage Pests Naturally
What’s worked best for me:
- checking plants regularly (this is huge)
- hand-picking larger pests like hornworms
- encouraging beneficial insects
- using companion planting (like basil and marigolds)
👉 Catching problems early makes all the difference. You can read naturally managing pests here → A Guide to Organic Pest Control in the Garden
A Note on Disease-Resistant Varieties
Some issues—like Fusarium or Verticillium wilt—live in the soil and are much harder to control once they show up.
To reduce the risk:
- choose disease-resistant varieties when possible
- rotate crops each year
More gardening posts you'll love
Once you've found yourself bitten by the garden bug, you'll find yourself wanting to know everything! Check out my Guide for Growing Potatoes or How to Save Sunflower Seeds.
- How to Start Seeds Indoors: A Complete Beginner Guide
- How to Safely Water Bath Can Tomatoes (Beginner-Friendly Guide)
- How to Make Pickled Beets (Refrigerator & Canning Recipe)
- Growing Onions from Seeds
- Easy Homemade Salsa - How to Can Salsa
- Sourdough Apple Zucchini Muffins
- Sourdough Banana Zucchini Muffins
- Sourdough Peach Quick Bread










This is such a wonderful post on how to grow tomatoes!! I learned so much from it. So much information I didn't know. Thank you!